Monday 16 August 2010

The Well-travelled Road


A lot has happened since I've last been able to post, but I will start with the most recent first: last night I was in Kandy for the first night of the spectacular Esala Perahera procession. This procession through the streets of Kandy, home of the sacred Tooth Relic, carries the relic itself as well as the four Hindu devales for the people to see during the sacred full moon period. The relics are carried on the back of gigantic elephants, mainly tuskers, who are decorated in sumptuous clothes and sparking lights. Other decorated elephants join the parade as well as Kandyan dancers, and other performers and dancers. Drums, flute-like instruments, singing: all add to the hectic atmosphere as the streets are crowded with thousands of people eager for a glance at their religious relics. Well worth staying for, it was a fantastic evening.

Prior to my third stay in Kandy I have been up on the north-east coast, to the coastal town of Trincomalee. Trinco saw more than its share of action during the civil war, and it retains a rather bruised, derelict appearance as it struggles to reassert itself following peace. The harbour is beautiful but also incredibly dirty, with open sewage pipes and waste collecting on the edge of the water. We were able to visit Marble Bay, which was absolute paradise: swaying palm trees, golden sands, water so clear you can see the bottom six feet in, and best of all, practically deserted. Spent a wonderful morning and afternoon swimming and relaxing.



Follwing Trincomalee a rather nice surprise occured: I was invited back to Wasgamuwa for a few days! I was at Trinco with Ravi, SLWCS's founder, some of the other volunteers and the film crew who are producing a documentary on human-elephant conflict: as they were all going to Wasgamuwa and then on to Kandy, I was invited back to the fieldhouse for a couple of days before going to Kandy with them. It was brilliant, that first view of the fieldhouse was like returning home. Back to friendly faces, peaceful ambience and delicious food.

Today I've arrived in Nuwara Eliya, high up in the Hill Country and surprisingly chilly. This is the tea capital of Sri Lanka, so I'm looking forward to some tasty cuppas over the next few days...

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