Lazy Days in Galle and a Long Flight Home...

The final leg of my travelling took me to possibly the best place of all, although that is a tough call to make! Galle, specifically Galle fort, is a beautiful, vibrant, eclectic and colourful place: the town lives within the old Dutch walls of a centuries-old fort, a pink stoned lighthouse stands sentinel, its beacon gazing out over the vast, blue Indian Ocean. The buildings within are a mixture of medieval European, Asian and western architecture and design, and churches, mosques and Buddhist shrines co-exist harmoniously next door to one another.

The people too are a melting pot of cultures, nationalities and backgrounds: from international photojournalist Juliet Coombe who has since married and settled in Galle, to the young, boardshort-wearing, dreadlocked young men, the 'fort jumpers', who make money by being paid by tourists to leap off the fort walls into the sea below.

The food in Galle is similarly stunning: dhal curries, betelgourd curries, spinach and potato and fresh, hot poppadoms every night have become the norm...

Unfortunately all good things must come to an end, and after a few days exploring Galle and a peaceful afternoon relaxing on Unawatuna beach, I made the trip back to Colombo, where I treated myself to a night at the Cinnamon Grand hotel before finally flying the long 11 hours home.

Welcome to 'Little England'...

This is the repeated phrase I've heard in Nuwara Eliya: utilised by the British to grow tea and cool climate vegetables and fruits (including the beloved British strawberry), colonial Nuwara Eliya became known as a microcosm of England. It certainly feels that way when I was there: very chilly, with constant drizzle and grey mist obscuring the hilltops.

Nuwara Eliya is home to Victoria Park, a beautiful landscaped garden filled with fountains, ponds, flowers and numerous bright little birds chirruping away in the trees. Later in the day I visited Labookellie Tea Factory, and saw exactly how we get our delicious cuppas back home. Topped off with a complimentary pot of golden tea and a rather tasty slice of chocolate cake, a brilliant way to end my visit to the heart of the Hill Country.

Today I journeyed for hours on the bus, back to Colombo where I will be spending a few days before heading down to Galle on the south coast. Already the chilly, windy nights and rainy, misty days of Nuwara Eliya are becoming like a dream in the hot, humid air of the capital...

The Well-travelled Road

A lot has happened since I've last been able to post, but I will start with the most recent first: last night I was in Kandy for the first night of the spectacular Esala Perahera procession. This procession through the streets of Kandy, home of the sacred Tooth Relic, carries the relic itself as well as the four Hindu devales for the people to see during the sacred full moon period. The relics are carried on the back of gigantic elephants, mainly tuskers, who are decorated in sumptuous clothes and sparking lights. Other decorated elephants join the parade as well as Kandyan dancers, and other performers and dancers. Drums, flute-like instruments, singing: all add to the hectic atmosphere as the streets are crowded with thousands of people eager for a glance at their religious relics. Well worth staying for, it was a fantastic evening.

Prior to my third stay in Kandy I have been up on the north-east coast, to the coastal town of Trincomalee. Trinco saw more than its share of action during the civil war, and it retains a rather bruised, derelict appearance as it struggles to reassert itself following peace. The harbour is beautiful but also incredibly dirty, with open sewage pipes and waste collecting on the edge of the water. We were able to visit Marble Bay, which was absolute paradise: swaying palm trees, golden sands, water so clear you can see the bottom six feet in, and best of all, practically deserted. Spent a wonderful morning and afternoon swimming and relaxing.



Follwing Trincomalee a rather nice surprise occured: I was invited back to Wasgamuwa for a few days! I was at Trinco with Ravi, SLWCS's founder, some of the other volunteers and the film crew who are producing a documentary on human-elephant conflict: as they were all going to Wasgamuwa and then on to Kandy, I was invited back to the fieldhouse for a couple of days before going to Kandy with them. It was brilliant, that first view of the fieldhouse was like returning home. Back to friendly faces, peaceful ambience and delicious food.

Today I've arrived in Nuwara Eliya, high up in the Hill Country and surprisingly chilly. This is the tea capital of Sri Lanka, so I'm looking forward to some tasty cuppas over the next few days...

The Sacred Cities

Since I last wrote, I have left the conservation project, spent a few days around Colombo and Dehiwala, and have since arrived in Polonnaruwa.

Spent several days in Anuradhapura, one of Sri Lanka's ancient capitals: as you can imagine, crumbling ruins, bright white dagobas, serene Buddhas and beautifully landscaped parks. My favourite was five minutes from our guesthouse, a wonderfully quiet and shaded Royal Pleasure Gardens with huge bathing pools and elephant friezes throughout. The story says that one of the ancient princes met and fell in love with a commoner here in the park, whom he then married, forsaking the throne. Several Sri Lankan couples were picnicking under the leafy trees, no doubt recreating those old love stories.


Onwards then to Polonnaruwa, following a long and bustling bus journey, and tomorrow the plan is to visit the ruins here. Then due to meet up with some friends from SLWCS over in Trincomolee on the east coast, so will endeavour to keep you updated!!